The renaissance of the gown

[David Bean]

I apologise for my recent lengthy absence from this board; it is my intention to keep in touch with the St Andrews community as closely as possible, but sometimes life does get in the way!

I'm writing today about a St Andrews tradition - possibly its single most identifiable tradition at that. The academic gown - for most undergraduates, the scarlet gown. Although the tradition of wearing the gown, which is unique even at its current levels of persistence across Scotland, has been going for centuries, its observance does tend to come in cycles.In the 1970s and 80s, for example, it was going strong as it came to be used as a marketing tool by the university. In my day, the first half of this decade, it had become more of a marginal activity, although one that was almost always viewed favourably. These days, I understand that trend has continued.

Well, for those of us who really do feel that the tradition of gown-wearing is an important one that should be fostered and promoted, the time to come together is now. A small group of three close admirers of the university - Dr Jens Timmerman of the Department of Moral Philosophy, Dr Frank Quinault, former University Hebdomader, and me - have come together to set off a new renaissance of the Gown, and we realise that the only way to achieve it in the modern day is through a grassroots, student-led movement dedicated to renewing the tradition.

The possibilities are very broad, and so are the opportunities to get involved. If you're reading this because you're remotely interested in helping out, just think: you could be involved in running promotional competitions, co-operating with other societies, publishing fundraising literature and getting involved in commercial negotiations to investigate ways of lowering the cost of gown ownership. Yes, that's one of the aims of the project, too: we want all students to be able to afford to have a gown of their own to wear, whether through promoting the availability of lower-cost options or offering free loans for a student's whole career at the university.

So if you'd like to take part, if you'd like to stand with one of our boldest and noblest traditions and if you want to be there for the birth of the renaissance, do join us for our inaugural meeting on the evening of Tuesday 1 December, at the Byre Theatre bar.

Please see our Facebook event for more information:

http://www.facebook.com/event.php?invit ... 0791163305

[Hennessy]

A good start would be to invite more people to your facebook group, 5 is hardly sufficient.

[Duggeh]

Postgrad students wear the black gown from graduation right?

I don't think I ever see people wearing those about.

[Power Metal Dom]

Well, for those of us who really do feel that the tradition of gown-wearing is an important one that should be fostered and promoted

Why? I'm not trying to be flippant or disagreeable but you've not really said what your motivating reasons are.

Dr Jens Timmerman of the Department of Moral Philosophy

Our very own cross between Dr Strangelove and Boris Johnson. And, of course, a keen coffee aficionado.

getting involved in commercial negotiations to investigate ways of lowering the cost of gown ownership. Yes, that's one of the aims of the project, too: we want all students to be able to afford to have a gown of their own to wear, whether through promoting the availability of lower-cost options or offering free loans for a student's whole career at the university.

This is the primary reason why I don't have a gown. I would love to own one I just can't bring myself to spend £70 or more for something that looks like it should be keeping a pensioner warm. Price (I'm not really bothered about fashion) aside I'm not sure there's many occasions for me to wear one. I don't go to debates, chapel services, or formal hall meals and I'm indifferent to free Castle entry. I think I will at some point buy one second hand for my finals and to keep for life but I'd be more encouraged if more events and such were planned.

[Super Jock]

Does anyone else think that our expensive gowns look like something yer granny could make with a couple a quids worth of second hand material? Although I'm a fan of wacky traditions I'd rather just wear a jacket sorry.

[Fawksie]

Does anyone else think that our expensive gowns look like something yer granny could make with a couple a quids worth of second hand material?

I agree, for the £80 or so I paid for mine some years ago, it looks like tat. They can't always have been sold looking like they've been boil-washed forty times in quick succession, have they? Bobbles are not an attractive feature.

[RedCelt69]

Does anyone else think that our expensive gowns look like something yer granny could make with a couple a quids worth of second hand material?

I agree, for the £80 or so I paid for mine some years ago, it looks like tat. They can't always have been sold looking like they've been boil-washed forty times in quick succession, have they? Bobbles are not an attractive feature.

So the bobbles are a common feature? Oh dear.

On my first day at uni I got close to a gown for the first time and saw how bloody awful it looked. I'd assumed that it had been overly-used/abused and wasn't representative of the quality of the gowns in general. What it actually resembled was something that had been dragged off someone's bed... all of which makes the price tag even more eye-watering.

So there you go. If you want to increase the popularity of gown-wearing, contact the manufacturers and have them make future gowns out of a material that doesn't bobble-up.

And lower the price.

Job's a good 'un.

[Moral Philosopher]

Our thoughts precisely. We did quite a bit of research this spring. A better and cheaper gown is a real possibility if we change manufacturer. We even had a new sample gown made by another established robemaker, which the discerning eye might spot in the streets of StA... The current product is certainly not worth the £150 (!) E&R are now charging for a new gown.

If we don't take things in hand now, 20 years down the road only the choir will wear the gown, which would make StA a less distinctive and less colourful place - and that would be a shame. We agree that there should be more opportunities for people to wear the gown if they wish to do so (of choice, not requirement). And we've been thinking about graduates too. We're also pretty keen to link this in some way with a charitable purpose, such as university scholarships... Come along on 1 December if you're interested.

[Moral Philosopher]

PS: Bobbles appeared on the scene in the 1970s, when the local supplier bowed out and Joshua Taylor in Cambridge took over, who was then gobbled up by Ede & Ravenscroft. They are neither traditional nor desirable. Another problem is the colour, which has been erring on the orangy side of things in recent years.

[DACrowe]

Do you anticipate negotiating for all manner of academic dress or is this really just about undergraduate gowns? I might be in the market for a hood at some point.

[Moral Philosopher]

Do you anticipate negotiating for all manner of academic dress or is this really just about undergraduate gowns? I might be in the market for a hood at some point.

Good question. Ultimately, sourcing gowns etc. is a matter for BESS, and we can only make suggestions & try to be generally helpful by doing a bit of research for them. We were primarily thinking of student gowns (and possibly caps with coloured tassels, if anyone cares to wear them - they're quite cheap). But why not hoods, if there's a market? If not, Ede & Ravenscroft should be able to sell you a StA hood, ex-hire or new.

[David Bean]

I'm pretty sure BESS is the best place to go for graduate gowns and hoods - I don't know of any less expensive manufacturers, but BESS undercuts Ede and Ravenscroft significantly for the same products.

On the wider point of why we should care about the gown, I suppose it's an emotional response by a type of person St Andrews tends disproportionately to attract: people who find inherent value in continuing in the traditions of our forefathers, and fostering them for our descendants. The gown is not only one of the many instances of St Andrean uniqueness, it is also quite brilliantly attractive, particularly in assembly, comfortable, practical, warm but never stifling. Let's also note the place of the raisin string at the heart of one of our other great traditions, the academic family. Wearing the gown and displaying the raisin string (and telling the consequent stories of the objects' origins, conversations that have been breaking ice all over town for generations) allows us to make an overt display of kinship. Have a look into that one, social anthropologists!

It is, in short, magnificent as a tradition, but also a magnificent tradition. The gown deserves its protection and promotion, and I hope there are some here who'll join us.

[Al]

PS: Bobbles appeared on the scene in the 1970s, when the local supplier bowed out and Joshua Taylor in Cambridge took over, who was then gobbled up by Ede & Ravenscroft. They are neither traditional nor desirable. Another problem is the colour, which has been erring on the orangy side of things in recent years.

When were Cambridge Robes making gowns? That was - and is - the maker's name on the label in my gown.

[Moral Philosopher]

When were Cambridge Robes making gowns? That was - and is - the maker's name on the label in my gown.

I don't know for certain, but Ede & Ravenscroft became the quasi-monopolist they are today in the mid-90s, when the Major government upgraded the polytechnics & they started imitating the older universities by having their own academic dress for graduation ceremonies etc. My guess is that E&R bought Joshua Taylor in the course of that process. E&R were (I think) the regular supplier at StA when I was appointed, and that's ten years ago now. The scarlet gowns are still made in the same factory, though, and the cloth is supplied by the same company. More recently, E&R also bought small, family-owned businesses in Durham and Ireland. Expansion has made them rather lazy/smug/pricey...

The StA robemakers were called "Forsyth's". The colour of their gowns was darker (a bit too dark, in fact - the colour was fixed by the University at some point, with reference to the British Colour Council dictionary), the velvet bit was maroon(ish) rather than purple, and the quality of the cloth was far superior (not bobbly!). Some people still wear Forsyth gowns - family heirlooms, I suppose. Innes (the newsagent/bookshop on the corner of South St and Church St) always use one to decorate their displays at the beginning of the academic year. I don't know why Forsyth's went out of business around 1970 - something Gown Soc members could investigate. A very old gown (mid c19, not bobbly either) can be inspected at MUSA on the Scores.